There is a version of wine tourism that most people know. You book a tour, arrive at a winery with a group of strangers, follow a guide through the cellar, taste three or four wines at a counter, buy a bottle, and leave. It is perfectly pleasant. But it is not what we do.

Most people pass through the Alentejo. They stop in Évora for a morning, admire the Roman temple, have lunch, and continue south toward the Algarve. And in doing so, they miss almost everything

There is a moment, somewhere along the EN 222, when the road curves and the Douro reveals itself below, a wide silver ribbon winding through terraced vineyards that rise so steeply from the water they seem almost impossible. It is the kind of view that stops a conversation mid sentence. And it is only the beginning.

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